Table of Contents
Best Ways to Planting Vegetables
Work on the gardens in full swing. But to get a good harvest, the shock is not enough labor. Must have the wisdom to know the different vegetable. Just them we dedicate our stuff.
«Kids» like vermicompost
Cucumbers can be sown directly into the main pot (no seedlings culture) or in the beginning to grow seedlings. Incidentally, the second method is better for the spring culture, as this is a possible hardening off young plants. Sowing the seeds of cucumbers in the open ground is at a distance of 10 cm from each other. It is better to use several kinds for more reliable pollination. Later, the distance between plants increased up to 20–25 cm by removing unnecessary.
Of the tested cultivars most suitable: Nezhinskii, Competitor, May.
When transplanting seedlings of cucumbers in the open ground should be put into each well of 200–250 ml of vermicompost, mix it with soil and water, then plant the seedlings. Or at the bottom of the hole, you can pour humus 5–7 cm after the landing ground near the plant zamulchirovat biohumus layer of 1–2 cm
After deployment of the third leaf cucumber slightly hilling, but do it very carefully so as not to damage the superficial roots — it contributes to the rapid absorption of irrigation and rainwater, which should not accumulate at the base of the stem. This should take care, especially in the rainy season, as the stem may rot. Cucumbers pinch once formed the fifth list — thanks to the rapid development of side shoots. Pinched out to do a sharp knife, and not pull with your fingers. The cut made between the fifth and following, not yet unfolded leaf.
For more efficient use of beds in the garden area with cucumbers is recommended to plant kohlrabi and lettuce. They protect against wind and contribute to better fruiting. And in the open, windy areas, this vegetable is best to plant between the rows of corn. Good growth of cucumber helps mulch with manure or peat. The thickness of the layer of mulch can be up to 3–5 cm
Squash and zucchini grow well in warm weather, with temperatures 18–27 degrees. Requirements for the soil and its preparation, fertilizing and watering — the same as that of the cucumber. We need only note that these plants need soil with low nitrogen content. Shrub varieties planted at intervals of 90 cm, creeping — a 1.2–2 m.
Experiments with tomatoes
To make tomato fruits were large and delicious, you need a strong root system. Increase it in two ways. The first — planting seedlings than vertically, as is commonly accepted, and Lying. In a prepared furrow is placed not only to root but two-thirds of the stem, after removing this part of the leaves. Poured a layer of soil in a 10–12 cm stack is strictly a plant from south to north, so that it stretched as they grow toward the sun, straightened and grew vertically. In the buried part of the stem rapid formation of roots, which are included in the overall system power supply. And these roots on their size and efficiency is several times greater than the main one.
Now for the second method. It is easier and more accessible to any gardener. Some tomato plants at the stepchildren are not removed and used to make a stronger root system. How? The first side shoots should grow back true. They tear off leaves, bend down to the ground and cover with a layer of soil at 10–12 cm. Prikopat stepchildren are fast in growth. A month later they are difficult to distinguish from the main plant and height, and number of mature fruits.
Regular feeding can get very large fruit tomato. Fertilizing begin in two weeks after transplanting. That plants do not form without the use of a large vegetative mass, apply a complete fertilizer with a ratio of major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) 1:1:1. The easiest way to make a feeding surface in a dry form. Fertilizer evenly scatters between plants in the mulch and watering dissolve it, thus bringing to the roots. Feeding was repeated every two weeks until mid-August. And each time brings no more than 20 grams of fertilizer per square meter.
Always more productive plants, which grew out of full-length, large seeds. In order to provide such necessary seeds, such as cucumber, dip it in plain water, and tomatoes — a 5% solution of sodium chloride. Settled — heavier, take for sowing surfaced — is removed.
Beware of the potato tuber moth!
This pest — pohlesche Colorado potato beetle. By the way, too — «gift» of the American continent. What we are talking about it at this time — very appropriate, just as in the May local population crash occurs after the potato tuber moth butterflies wintering. The pest lives in plant debris or topsoil under caterpillars or pupae (which is why it is very important to study the soil before planting), while in the store — in all stages of development.
How to kill pests
The main cause of damage to potato hatched caterpillars. They weave webs of a small shelter and then implemented under the cloth covering of leaves (epidermis) and cause them to become worthless. Through the skin penetrate the tubers and severely damage them. Indeed, in one tuber can be 10–15 tracks. In order for your next harvest was not injured, follow a few rules.
— Seals planting the tubers to a depth of not less than 15 cm
— Spend hilling plants such that they were under a layer of soil 5–7 cm
— Use the Arriva, Decis, Danadim, Sherpa. The first process in conjunction with a spring flight of butterflies in the first or third decade of May.
— Pour potato irrigation, as this part of dying eggs and larvae of the pest.