Table of Contents
- 1 How to Watering Plants of Garden?
- 1.1 Watering methods
- 1.2 From sowing to harvesting: care of crops
How to Watering Plants of Garden?
Watering is not limited to bringing to a plant its water ration, it is necessary to optimize this contribution by providing at the right time (at the cool hours), in the right way (without wetting the foliage) and in good quantity (walnut the plant is useless). Water well, it is both good feed the plant and saves water, a precious commodity among all. Whether it’s watering a simple flower bed or a vegetable garden, an entire garden or farmland, there are solutions adapted to each configuration.
Depending on the surface, the shape and the destination of the plots to be watered, it is advisable
to choose from different techniques:
– with a watering can or a pipe – is the most frequently used in the garden’s vegetable. Its limit is obviously the size of the plot to irrigate. Watering by sprinkling allows him to water regularly and without fatigue flower beds, beds or lawn. For this, it is possible to use an oscillating, rotating sprinkler, or nozzles. Micro-sprinkling, a water-saving variant, is particularly adapted to flower beds.
In addition, irrigation by micro-irrigation (or drip) provides plants a slow and precise supply of water, which nourishes the roots directly; while irrigation is used mainly on a large scale, that is to say for agricultural land.
Water is essential for plants, but it’s also A resource valuable that becomes rare. irrigating your garden well is
learn to use the least possible water with efficiency Max.
From manual watering to fully automated watering, going through the timer-assisted devices, the range of solutions is extended. The simplest method is obviously manual. This watering by hand request for more equipment: a watering can or a garden hose finished by a lance or a pistol is enough. Their manipulation is childish, but these basic gestures will gain in effectiveness if they are performed at a good time, in the right way and at the right frequency.
An automatic watering system in the garden is nothing but a device controlled by a programmer, which triggers days and hours, for a programmed duration and without human intervention, irrigating your land. The programmer can then pilot a very simple installation (including a balcony) or a complex buried network. And the installation can work at normal pressure (spraying with sprinklers) or low pressure (watering by micro-irrigation or micro-sprinkling).
These days, everything invites to save the water. That is why, before any purchase of a system watering, you have to ask the question of diet in water from your future device. In addition to that provided by public transmission network of water, it is possible to recover and then use the water supplied by the rain, a pond or a well existing. If you have a big garden, it might even be interesting to drill to get free water at will. Wherever it comes from, this water must, however, be exploitable for watering: this is the role of the irrigation pump.
Different automatic systems can settle on the surface and without pipeline work. This is not the case, however for buried systems, which claim them works a lot heavier.
These include: spray sprinkler with programmer, micro-spray irrigation with programmer, porous pipe with
a programmer, drip with a programmer. For a system of surface, just add a “nose-of-tap” programmer that will drive automatically install. This will allow the passage of water in a system by spraying, micro-sprinkling or drip.
In addition, before considering the installation of an automatic watering, it is It is essential to check the available flow and water pressure.
How to water your garden?
Watering cleverly executed benefits both the plants, the planet and to your wallet. While some principles make sense, others, less known, are worth recalling.
When we water often, but superficially, the system root of plants tends to develop superficially rather than in depth, while the water is precisely in depth! It is why it is better to water in two passages, in starting with a light watering that moistens the earth; at the second watering, water penetrates better into the soil.
From sowing to harvesting: care of crops
If it rains regularly, the family garden does not need watering, except at the time of sowing and transplanting. In the dry season cultivate preferably vegetables that require little water, such as sorrel Guinea and perennial vegetables.
The water of irrigation is generally measured in millimeters (mm): 1 mm = 1 liter per square meter = 1 watering can (about 10 liters) per 10 square meters. Water requirements depend on climate and soil.
During the dry season, if it does not rain, leafy vegetables have need at least 6 mm of water a day and other vegetables from minus 4 mm per day, that is to say respectively 6 and 4 watering cans per board of 10 m2. Sandy soil should be watered more often silty soil or clay because sand holds a lot less well moisture. Watering heavy soils should be done more slowly to allow water to enter the soil. Avoid too much water: this displaces air from the soil and the roots may rot if the soil remains soaked for a long time.
After transplanting, the plants require daily watering lightweight. For plants more robust: about a watering per week on soils heavy and twice (or three once in hot conditions and dry) per week on light soils. Water preferably at the end afternoon. Avoid doing it in full sun to avoid a large loss of water by evaporation. Use a watering can with an apple in the nursery: the waterfalls in the fine rain and does not do not wash the floor. We can also use a broom and a bowl or a calabash filled with water.
Water well-spaced plants
Water well-spaced plants (tomato, aubergine, cabbage, pepper, cucumber) near the foot, for example using a watering, can without the apple. Avoiding wetting the leaves reduces the risks of spreading diseases. It decreases the workload, so it can be easily filled the barrel, at a tap for example. In addition, it saves water, minimizing losses due to irregular watering, evaporation, and runoff. If surface irrigation is possible, apply local methods of immersion boards or Irrigation of furrows in ridges.
Other crop care Shelters
Shelters are used to protect seedlings and freshly transplanted plants sun and heavy rain. The most common shelters are composed of a roof of leaves or woven straw, placed on stakes, above the nursery. Shelters are sometimes covered with sheets of transparent plastic (polyethylene) to keep the plants dry, for example, to reduce the spread of tomato diseases during the wet season. We also install individual shelters using palm leaves
Weeds compete with crops for light, water, and nutrients. Most of them grow quickly and suffocate easily the seedlings. Climbing weeds or green manures, such as kudzu or desmodium, quickly invade young trees. If trees have been covered to protect them from the sun, we may not be able to spot the problem in time. Hand pulling and weeding are the common methods. We pass a hoe well sharpened under the surface of the ground. It is an ideal tool to cut weeds right after germination, at a condition that the soil is dry. The most important herbs snatch by hand or with a hoe, getting enough deep to avoid they do not grow back. In dry weather and sunny, let the herbs dry on the spot. Can also pick them up and drop them on compost, or under a tree to serve as mulch.
Weeds that spread through stolons underground (eg Imperata that is harmful) or tubers (Nutgrass – Cyperus) are hard to fight. A fork will be without a doubt necessary to tear off the underground parts, but it will several strokes of the fork or hoe all around these plants for succeeding in rooting out and destroying them. Mulching is not enough to eliminate this kind of plants. Herbicides are too expensive and dangerous (crop damage, toxic to humans) for use in the family garden.
Staking and size
If the plants are fragile (tomato, aubergine), they are tied loosely to a picket that will help them bear the weight of their fruits. Climbing plants (several beans, basil, bitter cucumber) cling to any medium: branches dead planted in the ground, stakes (live) or lattice (chayote, fruit of passion).
Picking up young shoots of grasses, shrubs or trees for the meal is to cut them. In principle, new shoots buds below the cut point, which allows quickly pick it up again. To obtain a single rod of tomato plant, just pinch the little side shoots after their appearance. In this case, we remove the shoot in its entirety, without leaving a bud so that only one stem remains.
Ideally, you can pick up vegetables, young shoots or other vegetables every day and throughout the year. The harvest leafy vegetables and young shoots should preferably be early morning. It is advisable to watch the time: fruits and vegetables picked up dry are better than wet products. Do not wash eggplant, tomato, and cucumber only immediately before consumption. Once washed, they rot quickly. Keep the vegetables and fruits in a dry, cool, airy and dark place.