Successful organic gardeners know that if you choose the right plants for your conditions, plant them in healthy soil, give them fertilizer and water judiciously, and react sensibly to problems, your garden will be beautiful, productive, and undemanding. The same holds of houseplants. Here’s what you need to know to care for potted plants the right way—that is, organically.
The Right Light For HousePlants
Begin by observing the places where you want to put houseplants. Knowing how much light each spot gets will help you determine the right plants for that spot. “High” light is found directly in front of most south-facing windows, and large unobstructed east or west windows. Smaller unobstructed east or west windows yield “medium” light. North windows and those that are shaded offer only “low” light. Your plants will get only low light if they are more than a couple of feet from a window facing in any direction.
Houseplants From Nursery – Buying Smart
Carefully read plant tags before you buy to identify suitable choices for each spot in your home. As a rule of thumb, flowering plants require high light, while many foliage plants thrive in low light.
Shop around for houseplants—prices and quality can vary widely. Garden centers, home centers, florists, and even supermarkets sell potted plants. When you find a plant you want, choose a balanced, evenly shaped specimen. If you’ve decided on a flowering houseplant, look for one that has plenty of buds, with just a few flowers beginning to open.
Finally, inspect each plant thoroughly to be sure it does not have disease or pest problems. Gently tug on the leaves to be sure they don’t pull off too easily—a sign of an unhealthy plant.
Houseplants suffer as much from overwatering as they do from underwatering. To determine if your plants need water, push your finger about an inch or so into the pot’s soil. If the soil feels damp, check again in a few days. When the top layer of soil is dry, water the plant.
Bear in mind that plants growing in clay pots dry out faster than those in plastic pots. Also, plants growing in “high” light need water more frequently than those in “low” light. And, plants use much more water during the long, warm days of summer when they are actively growing than in the short and cool days of winter.
When you do water houseplants, give them a thorough soaking so that a little water runs out of the pot’s drainage hole and into the saucer. This flow of water through the soil is beneficial because it pushes out used air and allows fresh air to move into the spaces between soil particles. Plants’ roots need air as well as water.
If water goes straight through the pot and out the bottom, the potting soil has become so dry that it has contracted and left space where the water can run through. To water dried-out soil, set the entire pot in a bowl or sink full of water to the pot’s rim and let the soil slowly absorb the water. After the soil is wet, let it drain and then return it to its saucer.
Feed Right with the Fertilizers
The temptation to overfeed is almost is as strong as the urge to overwater. But overfeeding makes the plant weak and susceptible to disease. As with water, plants that get a lot of light need more fertilizer than those in dimmer sites. And unless a plant is actively growing in winter, don’t feed it all during the dormant season.
What should you use to fertilize houseplants? Not the blue crystals you mix in water—they’re synthetic that stimulates unhealthy growth. Instead, use a weak dilution of fish and seaweed fertilizer such as Sea Rich, which comes from Gardens Alive! in convenient liquid form.
Balanced fertilizers—that is, with an equal ratio of the three main nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—are best for houseplants. Frequent weak applications of fertilizer are better than infrequent heavy applications for houseplants.
Potting and Repotting
Eventually, all houseplants need to be repotted either because they’ve grown too big for their pots or because they need to move into the fresh potting mix. Generally, you should report your plants about once every other year. Do it in the spring or summer when the plants are actively growing.
When you remove the plant from its pot, shake away as much of the old soil from the roots as possible. If the plant’s rootball is so dense and tangled that the old soil won’t shake loose, use a large knife to slice away an inch or two of the rootball on all sides and the bottom. Add fresh soil to the bottom of the pot, then set the root-trimmed plant back in and add fresh soil in the space you created around the sides.
You can use any commercial potting soil for most houseplants (avoid those that have fertilizer blended in). Your houseplants will be healthier and grow much better if you mix compost in with the potting mix. Be aware that certain plants prefer special soil mixes. Cactuses, for example, need extra sand for great drainage. Orchids generally prefer a very loose, bark-based mix. Again, check plant tags for any special needs the plant may have.
- HOUSEPLANT INSECT CONTROL - These ready-to-use granules are meant for controlling insects and pests affecting your indoor plants. Unlike other products, this is designed to protect containerized plants.
- NO ODOR - Unlike most other chemical pesticides and herbicides, this bug killer does not have an odor, so using it in your home will not stink up your furniture, clothing, or rooms.
- TREATS MANY BUGS - This product is a capable treatment for mealybug, termite, aphids, Japanese beetles, and more. Be cautious of certain bugs or animals that eat your plants. Bees and pets may be harmed if the product is ingested.
- FOR NON-EDIBLE PLANTS - This insect killer treatment is not meant for vegetable or fruit plants. This product is labeled for use on flower beds, roses, shrubs, and the like, but it is not labeled for use on any edibles.
- HOW IT WORKS - After incorporating the granules into the soil and watering them in, the pesticide is absorbed by the roots where it moves through the plants to assist in protection against the listed bugs. Protection lasts for up to 8 weeks.
- Complete Protection - Kills Spider Mites, Insects, and Fungal Disease
- Safe around Plants, People, and Pets
- Effective Premium Ingredients - Based in Nature
- US-Farmed Peppermint Oil
- For Garden, Indoor Plants, and Crops
Pest and Disease Control
These small white, green, black, brown, or orange pests are often found in clusters on tip growth and flower buds. A strong spray of water is usually enough to dislodge them—give an infested plant a good shower in your tub or outside with the hose.
If you see tiny tufts of white cotton, usually clustered in sheltered areas of stems or on the underside of leaves, your plant has mealybugs. To control them, apply rubbing alcohol to individual mealybugs (the white tufts) using a cotton swab.
About the size of a grain of salt, mites are hard to see, but the damage they do is not. Look for mottled or stippled leaves, deformed flowers, and very fine webbing over the damaged area. A strong spray of water will usually eliminate them—just be sure to spray both the tops and bottoms of leaves.
You won’t spot scales easily as they blend in well against stems and leaves. The first clue of a scale outbreak is often sticky specks on plant leaves or the tabletop. Check the leaves and stems directly above the sticky area for bumps that can be rubbed off. Rub off scales by hand—if there are too many, find a chance to put the plant outside where the scale’s natural enemies can get rid of them for you.
If you notice white specks flying up when you brush against a plant, whiteflies have set up camp. To control them safely, get insecticidal soap and spray it on the leaves, particularly on the underside (try the spray on a few leaves before spraying the whole plant to be sure it is not sensitive to the soap).
Some cats like to dig in potted plants, others use them for litter boxes. If your cats won’t stay away from your houseplants, crush some rue leaves and spread them on top of the soil—the scent is very unpleasant to cats.
Types of Equipment and Devices used for Fighting HousePlants Enemies
Two types of equipment and devices are employed for staving off the enemies of the HousePlants:
1) Those that provide
mechanical kind of protection to HousePlants.
2) Those that are employed for the application of the insecticides and the fungicides.
The first one, the cover frame can easily be said to be the most helpful. Typically it consists of a box of wood that measures approximately 18 inches to 2 feet square with a height of about eight foot. It is covered with glass, cloth protection, and mosquito wire/net. The very first two coverings provide the additional benefit of heat retention and protection from the cold, thus facilitating the planting earlier than it would have otherwise been safe.
These are extensively used to get an earlier and safer start especially with melon, cucumbers, and other vine veggies.
Simpler devices like the cardboard or collars of tar paper, made so that they are of several inches height and are high and big enough so that they can be placed around the plant’s stem and can penetrate the soil a few inches, are used to protect recently set plants like the cabbage or tomatoes from cutworm.
Poison powder should be applied using a powder gun and in this case, a hand-powered compressed air sprayer can be employed for the application of wet sprays. It should possess a mist-making nozzle; in this case, the automatic nonclogging type is the best. For extensive work though, a wheel-mounted barrel pump may be utilized. For either of them, extension rods used for spraying the trees may be acquired.
For small-scale operations, a hand syringe of good quality may be employed. However, it may be most beneficial to get a small sprayer tank for a little more money as it will throw an incessant stream of spray and hold larger spraying solution amounts inside it. A brass metal machine for any of these types will be better and longer-lasting than that of cheaper kind of metal which tends to corrode quickly because of the chemicals and poisons that are made use of in these.
For harvesting purposes, in a small-sized garden, few instruments apart from the spade, spading fork, and the prong-hoe are used. The reason being, most not only need long rows of soil to be used economically but need horsepower too. The double wheeled hoe has an attachment for the onion harvester that can be advantageously used for loosening onions, turnips, beets, etc., out of soil or may be used for cutting the spinach. In order to get the carrots and such deep-growing veggies, you may run a hand plow near to the sides of carrots.
If you are intending to purchase garden tools, it is advisable to first investigate thoroughly the various kinds available, and buy keeping the long-term use in mind. In short, well cared for, good tools will enhance your gardening profits and pleasure.